The Best Cold Plunge Chillers
Updated June 2026 · by The Cold & Cedar Team
A chiller is what separates “always-cold, ready whenever you are” from “buy ice every session.” This guide covers the two ways to get one — integrated into a tub, or as a standalone unit — how to size it, and the factors that actually matter before you buy.
Integrated vs standalone, compared
| Approach | Example | ~Price | Reaches | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Integrated chiller tub | Plunge All-In | ~$5,000–6,000 | ~37–39°F | Turnkey daily use |
| Integrated, high-power | Sun Home Cold Plunge Pro (1 HP) | Premium | ~32°F | Coldest, premium build |
| Standalone chiller | Pair with any tub / stock tank | Varies | Depends on sizing | Value & DIY flexibility |
Prices are approximate 2026 figures and change often — tap “check current price” for the live number.
The best chiller options
Plunge All-In (integrated chiller) ~$5,000–6,000
Best integrated / turnkeyIf you would rather buy a solved problem than assemble one, an integrated-chiller tub is the answer, and the All-In is the benchmark. Its chiller, pump and filtration are tuned to the tank, holding clean water around 37 to 39 degrees Fahrenheit with app control. There is no plumbing, no sizing maths and nothing to match up — you fill it once and use it. You pay a clear premium for that, and you cannot swap the chiller out on its own, but for sheer convenience nothing beats integrated.
Pros
- Chiller, filtration and tank tuned together
- Holds ~37–39°F with app control
- No plumbing or sizing required
- Looks like a finished fixture
Cons
- Premium price
- Chiller cannot be upgraded separately
- Needs floor space and an outlet
Sun Home Cold Plunge Pro (1 HP integrated) Premium
Best high-power integratedWhen you want maximum cooling without building anything, the Cold Pro pairs a 1 HP chiller with a 316-grade stainless tub and reaches around 32 degrees Fahrenheit. That is more cooling power than most people need, but it means the unit holds very cold water comfortably even in a warm room, where a smaller chiller would struggle. It is among the most expensive ways to get a chiller, and it feels permanent rather than portable — this is a pick for people who want the best and know it.
Pros
- Powerful 1 HP chiller reaches ~32°F
- Holds very cold water even in warm rooms
- Premium 316 stainless build
Cons
- Among the most expensive options
- More cooling than most people need
- Heavy and permanent-feeling
Standalone chiller + your own tub Varies (check price)
Best value & flexibilityThe flexible, lower-cost route is to buy a standalone chiller and plumb it into a tub you already like — a stock tank, a sturdy hard tub, even a sealed chest-freezer build. You choose the cooling power to match your tub and climate, you can replace the chiller on its own later, and the total spend can land well under a premium integrated tank. The trade-offs are a more utilitarian look, some setup and sizing to get right, and the need to add your own filtration if the unit only cools. For many people, it is the smartest value in cold-water plunging.
Pros
- Works with almost any tub or stock tank
- Choose the power to match your needs
- Replaceable on its own
- Often the best value for cold-on-demand
Cons
- Utilitarian look
- You must size and set it up correctly
- May need a separate filter or sanitiser
- Care needed mixing water and power (use GFCI)
How to choose a cold plunge chiller
Integrated vs standalone
An integrated chiller is built into a finished tub, like the Plunge All-In. It is the most convenient and best-looking route — everything is tuned to work together and there is nothing to plumb — but you pay a premium and cannot upgrade the chiller separately. A standalone chiller is a separate box that plumbs into any tub, stock tank or even a chest-freezer build. It costs less, works with whatever tub you like and can be replaced on its own, at the cost of a more utilitarian look and a bit of setup.
Sizing: HP versus your tub and climate
Chiller power is usually quoted in horsepower, and it has to match three things: how much water you are cooling, how cold you want it, and how warm your room gets. A 0.8 HP unit is fine for a small tub held in the 50s degrees Fahrenheit. Step up to 1 HP or more for larger tubs, for water in the 30s and 40s, or if the chiller lives somewhere hot. Undersizing is the most common mistake — a chiller that copes in spring can fall behind in a summer garage.
Cooling rate and holding temperature
There are two numbers worth separating: how fast a chiller pulls the temperature down, and how cold it can hold the water steady. For daily use, holding temperature matters most, because a well-insulated tub with a cover lets even a modest chiller maintain cold water cheaply once it gets there.
Filtration and sanitation
Cooling is only half the job; clean water is the other half. Some chillers include or pair with a filter and an ozone or UV sanitiser, which is what keeps the water clear for weeks instead of days. If you choose a cool-only standalone unit, plan to add filtration separately.
Insulation, covers and running cost
The cheapest way to lower your running cost is not a bigger chiller — it is better insulation and a good cover. An insulated, covered tub in a cool room can cost only a few dollars a week to keep cold, while an exposed tub in a hot space forces the chiller to work much harder.
Noise and placement
Chillers contain a compressor and a fan, so they make some noise and vent heat. Indoors, place the unit where the sound and warm exhaust will not bother you; outdoors, keep it shaded and protected from the elements. Either way it needs a nearby standard outlet, ideally on a GFCI circuit.
Get the free Home Recovery Starter Guide
A practical PDF: how to plan a cold plunge + sauna setup for any budget. No spam — unsubscribe anytime.
Frequently asked questions
What size chiller do I need for a cold plunge?
It depends on tub volume, how cold you want the water, and your room temperature. As a rough guide, a 0.8 HP unit suits a small tub and warmer target temperatures (the 50s degrees Fahrenheit), while a 1 HP or larger unit is what you want for bigger tubs, very cold water, or hot climates. When in doubt, size up — an underpowered chiller struggles in summer.
Integrated or standalone chiller — which is better?
An integrated chiller (built into a finished tub like the Plunge) is the most convenient and best-looking, but you pay a premium and cannot easily swap it. A standalone chiller plumbs into any tub or stock tank, costs less and is flexible, but looks more utilitarian and takes a little setup. Choose integrated for a turnkey product, standalone for value and DIY flexibility.
How cold can a cold plunge chiller get the water?
Good chillers can take water down into the 30s degrees Fahrenheit, though the realistic floor depends on the unit's power versus your tub size and room heat. A capable 1 HP unit on an insulated tub can hold the low-to-mid 30s; a smaller unit in a warm garage may only reach the 50s. Insulation and a cover make a big difference.
How much does it cost to run a cold plunge chiller?
Typically somewhere around 10 to 30 dollars of electricity a month, depending on your climate, target temperature, tub insulation and how often you open the lid. A well-insulated, covered tub in a cool room costs far less to run than an exposed tub in a hot garage.
Do chillers also clean the water?
Many include or pair with filtration and sometimes ozone or UV sanitation, which keeps the water clear far longer than an ice-based tub. Check exactly what is included — some standalone chillers only cool, and you add a separate filter or sanitiser.
Related: The best cold plunges · Best budget cold plunges · Build a home recovery room · All cold plunge guides